Pbus belay reddit.
Business, Economics, and Finance.
Pbus belay reddit 16 votes, 11 comments. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention I'm a little surprised your gym allows ATCs, unless I'm missing something? My gym requires assisted belay devices like a GriGri for top rope and lead belay. I like that I can keep the belay super tight, stay right under the clip, and never shortrope my climber. Then grab brake strand with LEFT hand ABOVE the right hand. Then there are people who you can tell are just inherently unsafe, and usually not due to PBUS vs tunnel. ) When I lead belay I usually do the pinch method until the first clip and then switch to PBUS Unless you're at a belay with an anchor (ie: 2nd+ pitch), there's no point in holding the rope. It gets easier! It's a new skill to you and practice makes perfect. Don't beat yourself up over it. Lead test is more involved. Just looked this up to double check. B for Brake. It's always important to respect your partner's risk limit if it doesn't put you in danger (increasing a ton of time, complications, etc. SSS was the standard belay method WAY the newer PBUS (hand over hand) method was taught. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device. You need to belay like it won't work. Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. Hey guys. Sometimes it won't do that. Pull out enough slack and just spot them until they've clipped the first piece of pro. Posted by u/Thnewkid - No votes and 15 comments Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 3 votes and 30 comments Posted by u/tmiller3192 - 4 votes and 33 comments You should belay with a GriGri the same as you do with a tube-style device like an ATC. Howdy Ya'll, As the title suggests, I'm a 100% indoor toprope climber, and always use a GriGri belay device indoors. Climbing is a mental game sport - despite that one hand sliding is just as safe, newer climbers are taught PBUS with an amount of for the backup, so I could see why she might get freaked out. Apr 28, 2025 · If you’re a newer climber, learning how to give a safe and proper toprope belay will also make you a much more desirable climbing partner. Although sometimes folks from that crowd are also forced to relearn new options due to injuries, either acute or overuse, like elbow tendonitis from training or simply Hell, I do plenty myself. Crypto Personally, I prefer the ATC for a heavier climber. That being said, what happened was that I reverted to this method subconsciously without thinking and lost by belay certification without warning from some guy who had never climbed in his life before starting his job there a Apr 3, 2018 · There are discussions of PBUS vs slap/slide technique for top rope belays, but I can't find anything about my preferred technique, which is NOT PBUS, but which strikes me as The Best Way (described for right-handed belayer) P and B happen as before: Pull in slack, Brake with right hand. All that being said, I teach PBUS because it works and I'm required to. It's much the same as in the EpicTV video (Jul2 vs Pilot belay test) where he shows two methods to lower - one is to use your thumb to lift the device while having that hand still around the brake rope (same position as regular belaying with it), and the other is to pinch the device with thumb and two fingers. Must demonstrate knowledge of z clip and back clip, knowledge of hard vs soft catch, pass the “lead climbing” portion and then separately the “lead belaying” portion. I learned to lead belay before current iterations of the Grigri were available. I use the two hand PBUS when belaying there, I'm not a dick and I understand the needs of University related anything. Much more useful for them. All the GriGri is is a tube-style device with a pinching cam that will often cinch down on the rope if it runs through the device too quickly. Hate saying anything to anyone, but if they pass the "I'd let them belay me" test then let people climb. Feb 13, 2018 · One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. Business, Economics, and Finance. During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. A lot of people also can't be bothered to nerd about details of different belay techniques and are completely content to keep using the first, hopefully safe, one they're taught. I am booked on an outdoor… Top belay they don’t actually have you belay anyone, they just test your knowledge with a rope that’s hanging near the belayer and tester. I like that I can have 2 hands on the brake strand when lowering someone heavier through just a single carabiner. I'm just your average redditor and avid rock climber who feels the need to weigh in on the recent string of posts… Posted by u/climbingmomma - 4 votes and 4 comments. It's each person's risk to take. So, use Slip, Slap, Slide, or PBUS. So many very experienced climbers, like myself, still use SSS because it's safe if done correctly and how I've always done it. cqzevqfmagfajjtvbjazpksammtsimnqvibrkltnwxcizhmxbjbjxo